Sail Norway: Midnight Sun Route

This sailing route was born from the dream of many Naleians to get off the well-trodden sailing routes, experience the magic of the arctic midnight sun, and get lost in a maze of fjords where humans are far outnumbered by reindeer.

We are sailing a round trip route starting from Harstad sailing to Lofoten and coming back to Harstad another way. We will follow a labyrinth of passages between islands, drop the anchor in magnificent fjords, and moor our boats for the “night” in tiny fishermen villages of brightly coloured wooden houses, next to stacks of drying cod fish. Sailing under the midnight sun, we will not be subject to the constraints of darkness, so we will trying ourselves at some night sailing, or rather “pseudo night sailing”.

This trip is for those who would like to experience the raw beauty of the North, the solitude of a fishing village living at the edge of the world, the infinite views from the top of a mountain peak, and who like to sail long stretches while watching the fjords and lush pastures pass by, singing to the tune of a ukulele while counting the reindeer on the shore.

As usual, no previous sailing experience is required, and the skippers shall introduce you to everything that is needed to handle the boat.

sailing trip harstad-lofoten-harstad

This route is longer than usual, so average sailing days will log around 30 to 35 nautical miles (5 to 9 hours per day). In order to have more time in the Lofoten, we will do a long 24 hours uninterrupted ‘push’ in the beginning of the trip, during which we will take watches in turn while the rest of the crew sleeps down below. We will then have more time in the second part of the week to spend time strolling through the fishing villages in the Lofoten, take a hike to one of the many peaks or dip in the icy water.

Due to the limited availability of yachts, we placed the route earlier in the season. The air and sea are still very fresh, but we’ll also avoid the tourists, so that we can experience the region under a more genuine light. For those used to sailing in the Mediterranean, please be aware that you will obviously need to dress differently, and that swimming endeavours will be very short! The weather is notoriously unpredictable in Norway, so do not forget your rain jacket. However, our yachts will be equipped with heating, and we may perhaps even be able to find a sauna or two along our way! Also, if the sun is out and you are in a windstill place a short sleeve will easily be enough!

Midnight Sun Sailing Highlights

What you can expect to do on this route.

Day 1. Harstad

Arriving in Harstad, in the distance we may spot the towering cliffs of the island of Grytøya. With only 24,000 inhabitants, Harstad is still the second most populated city in the region of Tromsø, and the last city we’ll encounter on our way. We meet in the town port, take over our boats and provision them. There will be a WhatsApp group made before the trip to coordinate all the preparations.

If everyone is early enough on the starting day and we manage to embrace the chaos of the check-in efficiently we will already sail out on that day and spend the first night on anchor or on a guest town pier which are plenty in Norway.

Day 2. svellingen

We set sail down through the beautiful channel of Tjeldsundet and make ourselves accustomed to the boat, to the Norwegian weather and to the breathtaking views all around us. The sailing should be relatively easy as we are protected from the swell in a narrow channel and hope for some easy downwind sailing.  At lunchtime we drop anchor and try our first dip in icy water (optional of course ;)).

Refreshed and with new strength we hoist the sails and continue towards Svellingen: a maze of islands, some smaller than a fisherman house. The navigation is both challenging and fun and we aim for a tiny guest pier or simply drop anchor in the middle of that maze. Crystal clear water, rocky formations and endless horizon welcomes us here.

Day 3. skrova

Once we finally find our way out of the maze of Svellingen we set our course west towards Skrova island where the first small charming fishermen village awaits. Tied up at the guest pier we take a 15 minutes walk to a sandy beach that looks like it could be from the Pirates of the Caribbean movie. The only difference is the water temperature but some of us for sure dare to enjoy the swim. After a pleasant  afternoon we ready ourselves for the “night” sailing session towards Reine.

Day 4. Reine

After a night of sailing we tie up in Reine early in the morning. Reine is seen by many as the most beautiful village in Norway, this tiny fishing village is dominated by impressive peaks and spectacular fjords. From Reine we hike the 448m to the top of Reinebringen (a three hour steep round trip) and enjoy epic views of the Reinefjorden and Lofotveggen (the Lofoten wall), a massive rise of peaks closing the horizon. A day of strolling the charming little town, enjoying a freshly brewed cup of coffee and freshly baked bread for breakfast.

Day 5. Henningsvaer, trollfjorden

This days first sailing session will bring us to Henningsvær, the fisherman village nicknamed the “Venice if the North”. We’ll moor our gondola for the day in the tiny harbour and head for the first Italian pizzeria. Henningsvær is built across a series of island connected by bridges, and is perhaps the village with the most famous football field in the arctic, having appeared on a number of videos. Let’s grab a ball and challenge the local football club, the FK Lofoten. Once the match is won and our strolls finished we head out to one of the most famous fjords in Norway. Trollfjorden.

If there is one place where we have a chance to spot Trolls, it’s definitely here! Trollfjorden is a magnificent 2km long fjord is only accessed through a 100m narrow opening cutting though a cliff. It is said that a battle was fought here in 1890 between the first industrial, steam-driven fishing ships and teams of traditional open-boat fishermen over access to the fjord. Whether we give a try to fishing or not, it’s certainly the perfect place for stopping for a night, tell each other troll stories and follow the course of the midnight sun.

Day 6. brottoya, risoyrenna

Waking up in Trollfjorden, surrounded by peaks hundreds of meters above our heads makes us energized and ready for the long way back to Harstad. We embark on a long path sailing back with beautiful views on each side of our yachts. We pass by plenty of anchorages and small harbours which we may visit for a short coffee break or stocking up on the last items we need. The peaks pass by while we sip our beverages and talk about all the experiences made so far.

Day 7. Skipperoya

Just before we come back to Harstad we shall drop an anchor in one of the beautiful bays near the island of Grytoya, Bjarkoya or Helloya. One island in particular caught our attention and we would like to inquire how did this island got it’s name.

Day 8. harstad

Day 8 is the day to say goodbye. All the miles sailed, fjords visited, skills gained and time shared with others will make you bond and build relationships. Cherish these, keep in touch and remember that the Naleia Sailing family is there. See you another time!